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SEPTEMBER 11, 2006
FAME AND FAITH IN ‘THE
9/11 CHAPEL’
ONCE A REFUGE FOR WEARY RELIEF WORKERS,
ST. PAUL’S CHAPEL IN NEW YORK NOW
WELCOMES A STREAM OF CURIOUS VISITORS
New York
THE REV. STUART HOKE, IN HIS ORNATE GREEN
VESTMENTS, LOOKS OUT OF PLACE AT ST. PAUL’S CHAPEL. HIS NOONDAY EUCHARIST
PRAYERS SEEM A MERE CURIOSITY HERE. The room, after all, has become somewhat
of a tourist attraction, given over to the aftermath of 9/11. But the priest
carries on, preaching to a distracted and ever-shifting congregation – a
tank-topped, flip-flopped river of strangers that slowly makes its way around
the perimeter of the sanctuary.

Every moment or two, someone will take a
pew, sit down, or kneel, then stand up mid-sermon and leave. They have come,
after all, to honor the dead and to see the chapel’s artifacts – the famous
banners, the photos, the toys, the badges, notes, flags, and plastic roses –
what parishioner J. Chester Johnson describes in a poem as the “litter of the
heart” left behind five years ago.
By an open door next to the altar, a bright
red double-decker tour bus idles.
St. Paul’s Chapel became known worldwide for
its role as a physical and spiritual mender of the exhausted relief workers from
the smoldering “pit” of ground zero across the street. If not for the side
altar covered with pictures of the many, many young and handsome dead, its
exhibit would seem to chronicle triumph. For while the world counted lives
lost, the chapel counted meals served, supplies donated, volunteer efforts
brought during an eight-month, round-the-clock recovery period. Finally, St.
Paul’s emerged as a symbol of the incalculable goodness spawned by the horrific
events of 9/11.
From the inside, the response was peaceful
-- a matter of lightly “steering,” says Diane Reiners, who coordinated the
14,000, mostly autonomous, volunteers. Management, when it happened, was a
matter of “a little more of this, a little less of that.”
Its recovery role complete, when it was
reopened to the public on Sept. 11, 2002. St. Paul’s found itself thrust into
another singular ministry – as a de facto memorial for visitors to ground zero,
where officials have yet to designate a formal shrine. In a typical month,
35,000 came to the chapel, wiping eyes, blowing noses, studying intently the
artifacts on display: “Did you see? That was Mike’s picture right by the
door,” a woman says to her companion.
Outside, the ancient graveyard offers a
shady respite from the bright void across the street, but the well-worn interior
has become a holy place for pilgrims of all creeds. “To us, this is a house of
God,” says Fred Leznek, of suburban Chicago, who is Jewish. Mr. Leznek, clearly
moved, visited with his wife, daughter, and granddaughter. The fact that the
chapel suffered not so much as a broken window even as the towers fell just
yards away, is a “miracle unto itself,” he says. “It means that God’s presence
was here.”

The pews at St. Paul’s were thoroughly
gouged and chipped by the rescue workers who slept in them. They now harbor a
second wave of witnesses to ground zero – who, slinging cameras, water bottles,
and backpacks – makes its own mark on the chapel’s history. Says Dr. Hoke,
“Part of our ethos as Episcopalians is this broad hospitality. The door is
open: Use the thing.”
St. Paul’s is – perhaps secondarily, now –
Episcopal. Opened in 1766 at Broadway and Fulton Streets as part of the vast
Trinity Church Wall Street parish, it is the oldest public building in Manhattan
in continuous use. Before 9/11, Trinity’s long-neglected daughter chapel saw
100 visitors weekly at best. A single Sunday service drew 18 or 20, and a few
history buffs stopped by to look at George Washington’s pew. There was no
full-time staff.
Ironically, in early 2001, Trinity – a
wealthy, powerful, elegantly high church in its worship style – had sought to
make better use of St. Paul’s in hopes of reaching a younger base. They
experimented, with little success, with various alternative worship forms.
Reincarnated, the chapel now hosts 60 or so for its daily prayer for peace, and
about 120 at the two services on Sunday. Two of the Trinity Church staff of 200
take care of St. Paul’s full time, and the mother church helps underwrite the
cost of chapel operations, which, despite its little gift stand and its
collection boxes, run at a loss.
Everyone from the local Masonic lodge to the
top NFL draft picks has visited, says Alessandra Pena, program administrator.
Choirs that sing here consider it more meaningful than performing at Carnegie
Hall, she says. St. Paul’s has also joined the Community of the Cross of Nails,
www.coventrycathedral.org.uk/ccnbkgd.html a global ecumenical reconciliation
ministry inspired by the post-World War 11 acts of forgiveness of German and
British citizens.
And then there’s the media – which have
logged dozens upon dozens of interview requests in recent weeks, according to
Trinity spokeswoman Donna Presnell. “Good Morning America” plans to broadcast
its show from the chapel on 9/11, breaking away for the memorial service that
will mark the attack on the twin towers. Whether dealing with the individual
visitor, the international community, or the press, the ultimate mission of the
chapel is advancing the cause of reconciliation and peace, Ms. Pena says.
Hoke, along with many at St. Paul’s was
there on 9/11 when the towers came down. Like others at ground zero, he
suffered greatly for a full year afterward – with acute fear of planes,
nightmares, and other evidence of post-traumatic stress. It also left him with
“an enormous sense of my own mortality, of the shortness and uncertainty of my
life," he says. The attacks served to “ground" him, he says, and he now knows
with certainty that he wants to live out his life at the parish. “I have the
sense of wanting to get on with my life – to nurture relationships with people I
love.”
After five years, the residue of death and
destruction is yielding to revitalization in those around him as the
neighborhood rebuilds and recovers, he says. Ultimately, the attacks “stretched
my view of how broad God is and how God works through all events and through all
of creation.”
Meanwhile, the visitors to his church, “his
parishioners,” such as they are, are “shopping for sound bites,” Hoke observes
good-naturedly. “They sit down for a couple of minutes, and if it gets boring
they’re gone. … Sometimes they’ll comment on an aspect of a sermon or hymn. …
At first I was unnerved by it. I wanted to say, “Sit down and settle.” But
after three or four months, I began to get more comfortable with this, and to
see it as an opportunity, not a disturbance.”
Where his seminary training centered on the
hour-long spiritual counsel appointment, his pastoral hour now lasts maybe 30
seconds, as he is stopped on his way up the center aisle by an anonymous pilgrim
who seeks to unburden himself in confession or to scare up a bus ticket. Rescue
workers come in to have their badges blessed. One mother of a World Trade
Center victim came in and asked the priest to bless her son’s socks.
Even after a formal ground zero memorial
opens, Mr. Johnson, a Trinity vestryman, says that he doubts that the Episcopal
Church will try to wrestle the chapel from its recent incarnation as shrine.
The juxtaposition of the good that took place here versus the destruction across
the street seems too vivid. For now, at least, the congregation in search of
purpose has had its purpose handed to it.
“For centuries,” says Johnson, “we were
incubating.”
By MARY BETH McCAULEY
Correspondent
The Christian Science Monitor
Thursday, September 7, 2006
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